On Saturday night, I became one of those strange types who request that a red wine be chilled. We were at a restaurant and ordered a bottle of Marcel Lapierre’s Morgon 2010 (a Cru Beaujolais red). I am of the belief that most Beaujolais tastes best when lightly chilled, and with the first sip I realized this one was at room temperature (in a room where it was warm enough that I removed the sweater covering my sleeveless dress) and therefore wasn’t showing its best. The usual refreshing quality of Cru Beaujolais was somewhat lacking.
Still, I was hesitant to ask for an ice bucket for red wine. But I felt vindicated when our server confessed that although their cellar looks nice (and indeed, it’s gorgeous), it doesn’t keep the wine quite at the temperature they’d like. Happily, the wine definitely did taste better, much more refreshing, once it chilled.
Another wine that in my mind falls into the category of “good and simple” wines mentioned my previous post, the Lapierre Morgon tasted mainly of raspberries and strawberries, pure and simple. There was a subtle vegetal, earthy quality to it, and some light white pepper on the finish. We liked it best when we reached the end of the bottle, and then wished we had more. It needs a little time to breathe before the fruit really shows its true self. Delicious, fresh, and easy drinking.
Marcel Lapierre is well-known for his contribution to the natural wine movement. Sadly, the harvest of this vintage was his last; he passed away in 2010. Much has been written about him, such as this article by Remy Charest at Palate Press and this one by Eric Asimov on the New York Times blog. His son Mathieu has now taken over the Domaine, and it sounds like he will continue in the same spirit.
Domaine Lapierre wine is occasionally available at the SAQ but always sells out fast. I wasn’t fast enough this year – maybe next time.